October 19, 2025 — Vancouver Island, Canada

Yesterday started with a drive down a winding logging road and a walk through a cold creek — the kind of mission that wakes you up from the inside out. When I reached the break, the ocean was alive, clean lines rolling in beneath a soft morning mist. I paddled out and was humbled by a couple of heavy waves, but soon found my rhythm. Then came the one — I dropped in, the lip pitching over, and for a brief second I was staring through the hollow window of light, almost inside my first barrel.

After that, I grabbed my camera and started filming. The local crew was on fire — stylish, powerful, completely in tune with the pulse of the swell. With the forest standing tall beside the break and the light shifting through the clouds, it felt like the island was showing off in its purest form. Remote, raw, and deeply alive — just another unforgettable day on Vancouver Island.